Throughout the years many mighty labels have lost their founders. A few take some time off before re-launching, others hire a new creative director straight away and just get on with it. The relationship between the brand and its new head designer can be sensitive; there's plenty of expectations to live up to and hordes of harsh critics out there. The list of short-lived tenures is long and many only last a season or so. It's therefore such a treat when they do work out, when the new designer not only manages to carry on but also develop the brand's aesthetic.
In recent history, there's no better example of this as when Raf Simons took over at Jil Sander. The German designer, together with Helmut Lang, perfected minimalism in the 90s but struggled to get along with the owners, Prada. So, in 2005, the Belgian designer succeeded her, having so far been known and adored for his adolescent punk look and subcultural references. But Jil Sander was a brand famed for its luxurious and formal tailoring. How would hardcore Raf fans and sophisticated Jil customers mix?
Really well, it turned out. Simons straight away managed to introduce new cuts, fabrics and shapes. He made the brand a bit more edgy and dangerous compared to Jil's safe sartorial solutions. In a way he was able to with Jil Sander what his own eponymous brand wouldn't let him; to fully let loose his unquestionable talent for sharp tailoring. Soon, also the the cuts of Jil's more casual apparel and knits was moving forward in rapid speed. Colours quickly became key and a few seasons in, both Jil Sander womenswear and menswear were at the forefront of the colour blocking trend that has rocked the fashion world.
Simons' Milan catwalk shows impress with a certain sense of general style but also manages to capture what it is customers actually want; well-cut and smart but simple clothes fit for everyday use, but in interesting colours - both eye-catching and subtle - and enough details and character to make them unique. Raf Simons' Jil Sander deliver on all accounts, which is rarer in fashion than you think.